Assos Travel Guide: The Temple of Athena, Aristotle and Aegean Views

The heart of Assos is the acropolis on the hilltop of Behramkale village and the Temple of Athena at its summit. The view from here over the Gulf of Edremit and, on a clear day, the island of Lesbos opposite is the real reward of the visit. You can explore the ancient city in a few hours, then wander through the village's narrow streets and stone houses down to the harbour below.

Where is Assos?

Assos is in the village of Behramkale, in the Ayvacık district of Çanakkale, built on a volcanic hill that drops steeply to the sea on the slopes of the Kaz Mountains (Mount Ida) as they reach the Aegean. The ancient city and today's village are intertwined: the road up to the acropolis passes between the village's stone houses.

You reach it by heading south from Çanakkale city centre, passing Troy on the way. That is why Assos is placed on the same day as Troy in most travel programmes.

Temple of Athena

The Temple of Athena at the very top of the acropolis is one of the well-known examples of early Doric temples in Anatolia. The columns that survive and those that have been re-erected are impressive enough to let you imagine the temple's scale. Some of the temple's relief panels were taken to museums abroad in the past; what you see on site today is like the building's skeleton.

When you visit the temple, turn to face the sea. Looking at this view, it becomes obvious why the ancient city was founded here: an easily defended hill watching over both the gulf and the sea route.

Aristotle and Assos

Part of Assos's fame comes from the history of philosophy. Aristotle is known to have lived in Assos for a time after leaving Athens and to have founded a school of philosophy here. He is also said to have made observations on nature and living things during this period.

Today there is no standalone building on the site where you can say 'this is the school'; but touring the area where traces of the school are discussed, with a guide's commentary, is a lovely way for student groups to connect a name from their textbooks to a real place. Assos is especially meaningful for high school students taking philosophy.

From the acropolis to the harbour: other places to see

• City walls: Parts of the walls that surrounded the ancient city still stand to an impressive height. Take a close look at the workmanship of the neatly cut stone blocks.
• Agora and theatre: Below the acropolis lie the remains of the public spaces of the city, which spread down the slope.
• Necropolis: Stone sarcophagi can be seen in the cemetery outside the city.
• Behramkale village: With its stone houses, narrow streets and village square, it has a character all its own. On your way up to the acropolis, the handicrafts and local products sold by village women may catch your eye.
• Ottoman bridge and mosque: The old stone bridge at the entrance to the village and the historic mosque near the acropolis bear witness to Assos's history after antiquity too.
• Assos harbour: At the end of the winding road down from the hill lies the small harbour lined with stone buildings. The panoramic view of it from above is also impressive.

What to eat and buy in Assos

Assos sits where the Kaz Mountains meet the Aegean, so its cuisine carries traces of both worlds. Olive oil dishes, all kinds of herb-filled börek and gözleme, fresh fish and village breakfasts are flavours you will often come across in the area. Dried herbs from the Kaz Mountains such as thyme, sage and linden, as well as olives and olive oil, are among the gifts you can take home.

Stalls in Behramkale village sell hand-knitted slippers, covers and small handicrafts. Buying them on your way down from the acropolis means you don't have to carry them uphill, and it directly supports the villagers.

Photography tips

To capture the columns of the Temple of Athena in the same frame as the sea, try shooting from the north and west sides of the temple. Late in the day, the sun sinking towards the Aegean paints the columns in warm colours. On clear days the silhouette of Lesbos stands out on the horizon; on hazy days the island can disappear completely.

How to explore Assos

The Çanakkale, Troy and Assos Tour plans Assos as the first stop of the day. You set off overnight and, after breakfast, visit the Assos Acropolis and the Temple of Athena and take in the Aegean view. The guide talks about the area linked to Aristotle's school of philosophy, and you see Assos harbour from a panoramic viewpoint.

After lunch you continue to the ancient city of Troy, and in the afternoon the day ends with museum and castle visits in Çanakkale city centre. After a night at the hotel, the second day is devoted to the Gallipoli Peninsula. For the programme's Troy stop, read our guide to the ancient city of Troy.

Preparation notes

• The road up to the acropolis is steep and cobbled in places. Choose comfortable shoes with non-slip soles.
• It is always windy at the top. Bring a light windbreaker in spring and autumn, and a hat and sunscreen in summer.
• Don't climb on the ancient remains; sitting or leaning on column fragments harms the preservation of the site.
• Don't forget to drink water as you walk uphill through the village, especially in summer.

Frequently asked questions

What is there to see in Assos?

The main stop is the Temple of Athena at the top of the acropolis. You can also see the city walls, the remains of the agora and theatre, the necropolis, the stone houses of Behramkale village and Assos harbour below.

Can you see Lesbos from Assos?

On a clear day, Lesbos is clearly visible on the horizon from the hill where the Temple of Athena stands. On hazy or cloudy days, visibility may be reduced.

Did Aristotle live in Assos?

Yes, Aristotle is known to have lived in Assos for a time and to have founded a school of philosophy here. The guide's commentary covers this period and the traces of the school.

Can you visit Assos and Troy on the same day?

Yes. The two ancient cities are close to each other by road. On our tour, Assos in the morning, Troy in the afternoon and then Çanakkale city centre all fit into the same day.