Luxor Travel Guide: Temples on the East Bank, Tombs on the West Bank

The easiest way to see Luxor is to split the city in two by the banks of the Nile: on the East Bank are Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple, and on the West Bank the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon. If you set aside a day for each bank, you can see the most important monuments of ancient Thebes without rushing. Because of the heat, scheduling outdoor visits in the morning on both days makes things easier.

Luxor is the modern name of the city known in antiquity as Thebes, Egypt's most important centre in the New Kingdom period. The ancient Egyptians associated the east bank, where the sun rises, with life and the west bank, where it sets, with death. This is why the temples are concentrated in the east and the tombs in the west.

Day one: the East Bank

Karnak Temple

Karnak is not a single temple but a vast temple complex that grew over some two thousand years with additions by different pharaohs. At its heart is the section dedicated to the god Amun.

As you walk around, pay particular attention to these:

• Hypostyle hall: This hall of more than a hundred giant columns is the most famous part of Karnak. The reliefs on the columns and the paint still visible in places show how colourful the building once was.
• Obelisks: The obelisks still standing in the complex show the finesse and ambition of Egyptian stonework.
• Sacred lake: An artificial lake used by priests for purification rituals.

Karnak is very large; allow a few hours to see it without rushing, and try to go early in the morning.

Luxor Temple

In the city centre, close to the Nile, Luxor Temple is more compact than Karnak. The giant statues and the obelisk at the entrance catch your eye straight away. The temple once had two obelisks; one of them now stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris.

Between the Karnak and Luxor temples runs an ancient processional avenue lined on both sides with ram-headed sphinxes. Luxor Temple looks completely different when lit up in the evening, so visiting after sunset is also a lovely option.

Evening: the Nile waterfront

You can end the day with a walk along the Nile or a short trip on a traditional sailing boat (felucca). Watching the sun set behind the mountains of the West Bank is one of Luxor's most peaceful moments.

Day two: the West Bank

Valley of the Kings

The rock-cut tombs of the New Kingdom pharaohs lie in this barren valley. The tombs consist of long corridors and chambers, their walls covered with scenes depicting the pharaoh's journey to the afterlife, figures of gods and hieroglyphs. The vividness of the colours surprises most visitors.

What you need to know:

• A standard entry ticket covers a set number of tombs; which tombs are open varies from period to period depending on conservation work.
• Tutankhamun's tomb is here and usually requires a separate ticket. The tomb became famous for the treasures found inside; most of them are now on display in museums.
• Photography rules inside the tombs can change; ask at the entrance.
• The valley has no shade; keep your hat and water with you at all times.

Temple of Hatshepsut

At Deir el-Bahari, the Temple of Hatshepsut, with its terraces set against sheer cliffs, is one of the best-known images of Egyptian architecture. It was built for Hatshepsut, the female ruler who governed Egypt as pharaoh. Ramps lead up between the terraces, and the wall reliefs depict scenes such as the expedition to the Land of Punt.

Colossi of Memnon

At the entrance to the West Bank, two giant statues seated in the middle of fields depict Amenhotep III. Most of the temple behind them has not survived. It is a perfect place for a short photo stop and is usually the first or last point of a West Bank tour.

How to get to Luxor

You reach Luxor from Cairo by domestic flight or by overnight sleeper train. On TatiliYakala's Egypt tour: Cairo and Luxor programme, you travel to Luxor by one of these two options on the evening of day three; day four is devoted to the East Bank (Karnak and Luxor Temple, with free time on the Nile waterfront in the evening) and day five to the West Bank (Valley of the Kings, Temple of Hatshepsut and Colossi of Memnon). We confirm the transport choice and details with you at the quote stage.

If you are also planning the Cairo side, see our articles on places to visit in Egypt and our guide to visiting the Giza pyramids.

For visa and entry requirements, check the current situation with Egypt's official sources and the Turkish Ministry of Foreign Affairs before you travel.

Practical notes for Luxor

In Luxor you cross between the two banks by bridge or by boat. The sites on the West Bank are far apart, so that day needs to be planned with a vehicle. Starting very early in the morning protects you from both the heat and the crowds. At tomb and temple entrances, keep your ticket and small banknotes somewhere easy to reach.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need to see Luxor?

Two days are enough for the main sights: one for the East Bank and one for the West Bank. Those who want to see more tombs and temples can add a third day.

How many tombs can you visit in the Valley of the Kings?

A standard entry ticket covers a set number of tombs; some tombs require a separate ticket. Which tombs are open changes from period to period, so you need to check before your trip.

Can you see Tutankhamun's tomb?

Yes, the tomb is in the Valley of the Kings and is open to visitors. It usually requires a separate ticket in addition to the standard one.

Can you visit Luxor Temple in the evening?

Luxor Temple can also be visited in the evening and looks very impressive under the lights. Check current visiting hours before you go.

Are there balloon tours in Luxor?

Hot-air balloon flights at sunrise over the West Bank are widely organised in the area. As they depend on the weather and are not part of the programme, you can ask about them at the quote stage if you are interested.