What to Eat in Edirne: Local Flavours from Fried Liver to Almond Paste

The first thing to eat in Edirne is fried liver (tava ciğer): liver sliced thin, dusted with flour and fried in hot oil, served with dried chilli peppers and onion. On the sweet side, almond paste and deva-i misk stand out, and among the things to pack for home, almond paste again, along with Edirne's famous fruit-shaped soaps. On a one-day trip it is possible to taste all of them.

Fried liver: Edirne's signature dish

How is it made?

What sets Edirne liver apart from other liver dishes is the way it is prepared. Calf's liver is firmed up by chilling, then sliced into very thin leaves. The floured slices are fried briefly in plenty of hot oil. This keeps them lightly crisp outside and tender inside.

What comes with it?

The classic serving is:

• Dried red chilli peppers: Fried in oil and placed beside the liver. They can be very hot; be careful with the first bite.
• Onion and tomato: Raw onion rings and tomato slices balance the richness of the liver.
• Cacık: Many liver restaurants recommend cacık (yoghurt with cucumber) alongside the liver.
• Ayran: The traditional drink to go with it.

How is it eaten?

The liver is usually eaten piping hot, with bread or on a plate. It doesn't keep; once it cools it loses its crispness. So ordering individual portions rather than a shared plate at the table lets everyone eat their liver while it is hot. Most liver restaurants also offer other options for those who don't like liver; if someone in your group doesn't eat liver, it is worth thinking about this in advance.

Desserts and sweets

Almond paste

Edirne's almond paste is one of the city's best-known gifts. Made from almonds and sugar, it has a soft, dense texture. You can taste it on the spot or take it home packaged. As it doesn't spoil easily on long journeys, it is a practical gift.

Deva-i misk

This paste-like sweet with an intriguing name is an Edirne speciality prepared with spices, said to have roots going back to the Ottoman palace kitchen. It is sold in small boxes and is worth trying once.

Cheese halva

Cheese halva, made with Thrace's fresh cheeses, is a dessert you often come across in and around Edirne. It is especially delicious served warm.

Breakfast and Thracian cheeses

Thrace is known for its varieties of white cheese and kaşar. Many people who make the trip to Edirne early in the morning stop for a village breakfast on the way. A spread breakfast of butter, honey, clotted cream, Thracian cheeses, olives and warm bread gives a long day of sightseeing a strong start.

What to take home

• Almond paste: The most classic gift.
• Fruit soap: Scented handmade soaps shaped like fruit such as apples, pears, quinces and strawberries are among Edirne's traditional products. They are not edible, but we have added them to this list because they are sold alongside food in Edirne's bazaars.
• Deva-i misk: For those looking for a different taste.
• Thracian cheese: With suitable packaging, bearing the length of the journey in mind.

For shopping, take a look at the historic bazaars in the city centre. The area around the Selimiye and the covered bazaars in the centre are the most practical places to find gifts.

Liver culture: a short glossary

A few customs you may come across in Edirne's liver restaurants make the experience more enjoyable:

• Portion: Liver is usually ordered by the portion. Some places also offer a half portion for light eaters.
• Peppers: It is traditional to eat the fried dried peppers with the liver, in small bites. If you are not used to spicy food, asking for the peppers on a separate plate is a good solution.
• Speed: Liver restaurants are very busy during the day. Fast service ensures the liver arrives fresh and hot, so the custom is to finish your meal while it is hot rather than lingering at the table.

What is the meal plan on the tour?

The Edirne Tour includes two important food stops. After leaving Istanbul in the morning, there is a village-style spread breakfast in Silivri. In Edirne, lunch is planned around the city's famous liver. After lunch you visit the Selimiye, the Old Mosque and the Üç Şerefeli Mosque, which means you are close to the bazaar area and the shops selling almond paste.

At the end of the day there is free time in Karaağaç and the Söğütlük Recreation Area. You can use this time for a tea or dessert break. What the package includes is confirmed in writing in the quote. We describe the whole route in our article Things to see in Edirne in one day.

Planning meals for groups

If you are bringing a school or company group, thinking about a few points in advance makes things easier:

• Identify in advance any participants who don't eat liver, are vegetarian or have special diets, and let us know at the quote stage.
• Warn students about the chilli peppers; it is a good idea to ask for a non-spicy serving, especially for younger ones.
• There is a long block of sightseeing between breakfast and lunch. Bring water and small snacks with you.

Frequently asked questions

Why is Edirne liver famous?

Slicing the liver very thin, flouring it and frying it in hot oil gives it a texture that is crisp outside and tender inside. Serving it with dried chilli peppers and onion has also become a tradition unique to Edirne.

What to buy in Edirne?

The best-known gifts are almond paste, handmade fruit-shaped soaps and deva-i misk. Thracian cheeses can also be taken home with suitable packaging.

Is lunch included on the Edirne tour?

Our catalogue programme includes a village-style spread breakfast in Silivri and Edirne liver for lunch. We confirm what the package includes in writing in the quote.

Are there options for those who don't eat liver?

If there are participants in your group who don't eat liver or have special diets, let us know at the quote stage. We work out the meal arrangements together accordingly.